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Bacaro Venetian Tavern's new chef Fabio Flagiello prepares the Bacaro Corzetti All Agnello dish in the kitchen. ( KASIA BROUSSALIAN )

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Bacaro Venetian Taverna, 921 Pearl Street, Boulder, CO 80302, 303-444-4888, bacaro.com; Freshly made Italian food with a variety of fish, meat, home-made pasta, and salads.

Hours Daily 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Accepts all major credit cards. Wheelchair accessible. Vegetarian and vegan dishes. Kids menu.

Noise level Conversations are easy.

Bacaro Venetian Tavern has gone to great lengths in recent years to remodel its interior, revamp its menu, and elevate its status. Most recently the restaurant announced the hiring of executive chef, Italian Fabio Flagiello, whose professional cooking experience in Italy, France, and California adds an international approach that blends traditional flavors with modern technique and elegant presentation.

The efforts are working. While Bacaro previously ranked among the downtown restaurants that provide an adequate meal, it has transformed into a destination in its own right with a creative menu and impeccable service. And it has accomplished this without skyrocketing prices or exclusivity--you won't have to wait months to get a reservation here.

In fact, on a recent weeknight evening, only the patio tables were full, a group of Francophiles filled the bar, and my husband and I had a choice of tables inside. Our earnest waiter steered us toward the antipasto appetizer ($16) and the caprese salad, which he said distinguished itself from other caprese salads due to its Tuscan melon accompaniment. While the $9 tomato and mozzarella assemblage did indeed appeal to my taste buds with its delicate dressing of extra virgin olive oil and basil, it was overkill given that the ample antipasto plate also included a small sample of caprese; better advice would have been to try a different appetizer. Or even to just stick with the antipasto, with its fine Italian meats and long thin slices of zucchini wrapped around a light goat cheese and marinated eggplant. The dish also included a generous serving of olives, sun dried tomatoes, Taleggio cheese and more, which transformed the platter from high-end cold cuts to a cultural, gastronomic triumph.

But before declaring victory, of course, we awaited our entrees: Branzino ($23) and Bacaro Corzetti all'Agnello ($17), the latter being Bacaro's signature pasta served over braised lamb ragout, and the former being whole roasted European sea bass. At first bite, the Corzetti issued a bold declaration: this is not your typical bowl of pasta. Silver dollar sized medallions of homemade pasta steeped in an otherworldly sauce of brown butter and sage topped a savory ragout of well-seasoned lamb infused with sage.

The bass upheld the high standard set by the Corzetti, in both appearance and flavor. Served atop rounds of roasted red potatoes and spinach tossed with a light and lemony sauce, the whole fish was beautiful. Cutting into it felt rather primitive, but the wave of flavors and freshness were entirely gourmet.

Throughout the evening our waiter checked in frequently without hovering, and the host and chef both stopped by for brief, amiable chats. It felt comfortable and welcoming instead of forced, and was a pleasant surprise from the Bacaro I remembered from several years ago with rude staff and long waits for service. The only thing lacking at Bacaro is more people. The emptiness underscores the restaurant's compartmentalization. The upstairs patio feels like a venue unto itself, and a lack of flow between the bar, back area, inside and front patio creates a stifled feeling. Perhaps with more of a crowd, the ambience would feel cozier.